Domaine Bertagna: A ‘Reh’ of Light in Vougeot
Located in the commune of Vougeot in France’s renowned Burgundy region, historic Domaine Bertagna once belonged to Cistercian monks from the nearby Abbey of Cîteaux. These same monks famously founded Clos de Vougeot in the 12th century. But the modern narrative of the Bertagna estate has been beautifully shaped by fifth-generation winegrowers, the Reh family.
While the extended family owns several winemaking ventures across the globe — including the renowned Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt in Germany’s Mosel-Saar-Ruwer — the Rehs have had a growing footprint in Burgundy since 1954. Gunther Reh purchased Domaine Bertagna in 1975, and his dynamic daughter, Eva, took over management of the estate in 1982.
Under Eva’s direction, Domaine Bertagna has made extraordinary investments in fermentation technology and vineyard management. Her winemaking philosophy emphasizes terroir-specific expression, purity of fruit, intense aromatics, elegance and length, and subtle oak influence. In short, these are precise Burgundy wines that beautifully articulate typicity and terroir.
And what wonderful terroir it is. Across Burgundy’s highly regarded Côte de Nuits region, Domaine Bertagna cultivates vineyards in 18 different appellations, 12 of which are Premiers and Grands Crus. This quality and diversity have cemented the Bertagna estate’s place in the top echelon of Burgundian domaines. While best known for its elegant, silky red wines, the estate also produces beautiful whites — including one of the world’s rarest releases, Vougeot 1er Cru Blanc “Les Cras.”
Eva’s efforts have been well rewarded with numerous 90+ point ratings from leading U.S. industry publications, such as Wine Enthusiast, Wine Spectator, and Wine & Spirits. While the acclaim is gratifying, Eva’s focus remains zeroed in on crafting exceptional wines that offer the purest possible expression of their origin — the mark of a forward-thinking leader with the highest quality standards.
Terroir
Domaine Bertagna’s vineyards lie in the Côte de Nuits, a prized subregion of Burgundy in east-central France. Stretching from Chambertin to Corton, they span 18 appellations, including five Grands Crus, seven Premiers Crus, and three Villages. The estate’s holdings reflect the make-up of Burgundy — the region is an immense mosaic of over a thousand designated land parcels or climats, each with its own unique terroir.
In general, the Côte de Nuits benefits from a continental climate, with hot summers that help grapes ripen fully. Situated along hills between the Massif Central (to the west) and the Jura and Alps Mountains (to the east), the vineyards have an ideal aspect for sun exposure yet enough altitude to maintain freshness. The vines grow in well-draining, clay-limestone soils, which encourage them to root deep for nutrients. This results in the greater finesse, depth, and subtle minerality found in top wines from Burgundy.
Viticulture
In total, Domaine Bertagna’s vineyards comprise 20 hectares / 50 acres. Most of the vineyards grow pinot noir, the signature grape variety of Burgundy red wines. The remaining plots are planted to chardonnay and split between Vougeot 1er Cru Les Cras, Vougeot Le Village, and a parcel of Corton-Charlemagne.
Eva and her team recognize that all great wines begin in the vineyard, and they maintain the utmost respect for each vineyard’s special terroir. They use only organic practices to work the soils, keeping the land free from chemicals. Rigorous pruning in the spring, followed by green harvest at veraison limit yields, so the vines producer fewer, higher-quality grapes. The team hand harvests the fruit when the balance between sugar and acidity is perfect. Once picked, the grapes are hand sorted in the vineyard, and again in the winery, ensuring only the best fruit makes it into the wines.
Expressing the Beauty of Burgundy
Eva strives to craft elegant wines that reflect Burgundy’s unique beauty. Before and during fermentation, cold maceration and light pigeage gently extract maximum color and flavor. After fermentation, the wines age for 12 to 18 months in 228-liter / 60-gallon French oak barrels, made by respected coopers Seguin Moreau, Dargaud and Jaegle, Rousseau, and François Frères, to impart subtle oak influence. Finally, the wines are not fined or filtered, which allows their natural character to shine.
